Solid
Aluminum and other solid metal billets are commonly used by
modern flint knappers, and although they are not historically
correct, they do work for percussion flaking techniques. Better
yet, they may be easy to use for some flintknappers as the edge
preparation necessary is slightly different. You can find our full
line of billets like the solid aluminum metal billet discussed on
this page, the popular copper bopper style, hammer stones, and
traditional antler billets in our Modern
and Traditional Flint Knapping Tools product category.
Modern billets are easy to stick in your pocket
and use when sourcing materials, last longer than natural antler
billets, and won't be chewed up by any but the meanest dogs. An
antler billet, being much softer than stone, microscopically wraps
around the edge of the preform when used. Slight strike angle
variations are therefore not so important, and they offer a
cushioned shock to the stone. For this reason delicate and well
heated materials may best be chipped with a lead filled Copper
Bopper style billet, or a Traditional
Antler billet. Solid metal billets are not nearly as gentle.
They transfer shock more readily, and strike a smaller area. Like
antler billets and copper boppers, solid metal billets also "bite"
into the edge of the stone but in a harsher manner. So you need
some practice in converting from antler to solid metal billets
like our aluminum model. The benefit of metal billets (both solid
and the copper bopper style), is that they require less swing, can
work a platform edge easily with less platform preparation, and
are perfect for cleaning and trimming large amounts of stone --
they will save your arm.
The diagram above shows proper
strike angle for a beveling or nibbling strike used to set up a
striking platform, or change of preform outline.
The diagram
below shows the angles necessary for striking a thinning flake
that runs across the surface of the preform, as well as the
difference in strike angles necessary in using metal billets as
opposed to antler billets.
To use solid metal
billets, remember the following:
The strike angle
with a solid metal billet is more straight down than with a copper
bopper or antler. Strike the edge of the preform closer to right
angles to the core centerplane. For solid aluminum, use just the
tip to strike. Push the billet in a straight path, taking care not
to make an arching strike. Aluminum metal billets seem to work
best when the core is elevated above the pad so billet travel
continues past the preform edge. Hold the preform just inside the
knee with wrist resting on the pad. If your flakes are not
traveling far enough across the preform face, adjust the angle you
hold the preform VERY slightly up on the striking edge. If your
flakes are creating step fractures, angle the edge of the preform
VERY slightly down, so that the force of the blow is not directed
so much into the preform center. It may take a while to get used
to solid aluminum metal billet strike angles. Keep your posture
and strike consistent and you will get consistent flake
removal.
We hope you were enjoyed the information in this
how-to article. For other lessons in primitive skill building and
traditional weaponry, please check out our GoKnapping
Kits product category. There you will find other all inclusive
lessons in skill sets like flint knapping, knife making, and arrow
making.
Copyright 2015 Elliot Collins
