Pine pitch glue is an extremely versatile natural pine sap
based adhesive that has been used from pre-history to modern times by various
cultures across the world. Mainly composed of rendered pine sap, ground plant
fibers, and powdered charcoal in specific proportions, this glue is easy
to apply and has numerous uses. Just to name a few, its applications
can include attaching and hafting stone projectiles and blades to
shafts/handles, illumination and fire starting, waterproofing basketry,
holding together woodcrafts, and even sealing seams on birch bark canoes.
Our pine pitch glue sticks have just the right amount of everything;
this creates a 'not to brittle but not too soft' glob of glue on a stick that is
easy to store and use whenever desired. For instance, if used properly
with sinew reinforcement for arrow point attachment, chances are the shaft or
point will break before the glue fails.
To use for your
project: Simply apply a task specific amount of heat to the end
of the ball of glue to manipulate as needed. If you hold over a flame for very
long at all, the glue can be dripped on to your project and quickly molded to
form, or you can simply apply a small amount of heat and form a pliable ball to
use for hafting/attaching points and blades with or without the added strength
of sinew. Experiment with it yourself and see what works best for your
project. Over heated pitch can burn your skin so please be cautious when
Storage and display: First and
foremost, any storage of raw glue or projects incorporating this glue should not
be stored in direct sunlight, or any environment that gets hot or even warm for
extended amounts of time. For example, leaving your glue on a stick in an un-air
conditioned car is asking for an unpleasant situation. It is best to keep sealed
in a dark cool environment.
Here are some
tips that can help you get the most out of your pine pitch
It is best to do any pine pitch glue project in a well
ventilated area and over a table top covered in news paper or wax paper for easy
A small hobby/craft propane or butane torch that can sit
flat on a table is a great source for hands free heat. Have it on a low
setting to avoid scorching the glue. If the glue on a stick ignites at all,
extinguish immediately by removing it from the heat source. Having a cup
of water nearby is a good precaution.
Heating gradually, then removing a
wad of glue and forming it into a thin bead may work better for your task than
using the ball on a stick directly.
If you make a mistake, simply
apply heat to the piece and start over. Like any glue, it can get messy.
Having some turpentine handy when doing your project will insure that clean up
It helps if not only the glue is warm, but the pieces being
glued are warm as well. Gluing an arrow point on to a shaft should involve
heating the shaft slightly, and glue, then the glued point on the shaft. You can
then wrap sinew into the soft glue to add strength. This also applies to knives
and other blade/shaft/handle combinations.
Try masking areas that should
not be glued at all with masking tape.
To give your project an ancient
look, try dusting the glue while still tacky in dried dirt or small bits of
gravel. Experiment as you would like to get the best results for your